In addition, about half of this party was summiting at the same time. Class 3 down-climbing to get back into the upper bowling alley: As you can see there were snow and ice in the alley, Down-climbing exposed class 4 to bypass snow and ice, This is the bottom step to get out of bowling alley, Alex starting back across the terrible traverse, Partway back across the traverse. However, in late-season when the snow is gone, it's an easy third class scramble. Turning around without reaching the summit:The guide will make a decision to turn back if they feel that the group is being placed in jeopardy. Just put your head down and go for it. 4) From the South Ridge, the wonderful topo above applies. North Sister - Climbing with Allan Throop. Alpine Climbing Moderate Distance 23 km Ascent 1.6 km Descent 1.6 km Low Point 1.6 km High Point 3.1 km Gradient 25 View on map Download GPX Flyover Share The North Sister is the most difficult of the Three Sisters to climb. North Sister Oregon Hiking & Climbing Access From the west, off Highway 242, 4 miles west of McKenzie Pass is a well-marked sign for the Obsidian Trailhead. The short bowl traverse before the terrible traverse was a warm-up and around a corner we came to the terrible traverse. Basic Alpine Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 1. There are no activities scheduled at this location. Stay on the south edge. This is a beautiful and remote alpine summit involving plenty of time on incredibly steep andexposed climbing to get to the summit. The first four right-hand spur roads are all passed in the first 1.5 miles. North Sister The most technical of Oregon's Three Sisters. Many variations. Here is an annotated photo with a complete route across the upper summit Ridge. Testa, 35, set out to climb the North Sister by herself on Saturday. Become part of a century-long tradition in the Pacific Northwest. 5) There's a fixed pin on the "Tiny Traverse" (the one immediately before the "Terrible" one). From there you depart the Obsidian Trail and head up the valley and ridge aiming for the point between the two peaks.For a kinda neat NASA shot of the area click here.To see the volcanic history of the area, click here. If not, you have to cross the bulging snowfield, where a slip would be fatal unless you anchor a rope and use it for protection. Sometimes conditions dictate that we move fast to catch a weather window, or else well be forced to turn around. Please do your best to prepare adequately for the physical demands of mountaineering. Mack's Canyon to South Sister, then North Sister. Depending on conditions, the route can be done with very little gear or it may require everything. It's about 8 feet above the deck, halfway across. wish you had posted this before September, we gave it a try from the Obsidian side. Me starting the terrible traverse. We were able to access the moat for much of the crossing but Im not sure if this is safe most years. Privacy Policy Website by Saveda Web Strategies. The approach description is updated. Private Guidesare available foranyone concerned about climbing with unknown partners. Another while later we were back across the terrible traverse and its then time for anther gear transition crampons off and axes in the packs. Eastking, Climb steep rock with bucket holds (class 3), followed by scrambling summit (class 3 and 4). ", "What a fantastic experience gaining the summit of a mountain we've gazed on from Portland for 25 years! 5 Total Climbs Trad Sport 20% 80% <5.6 5.8 5.10 5.12 V2-3 V6-7 V10-11 >V14 Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU! Our guides can only make decisions based on the speed of the team relative to current conditions and forecasted weather. Times: 6-7 hr trailhead to summit, 4-5 hr summit to trailhead. Probably a Northwest Forest Pass to park at the Pole Creek Springs trailhead. By signing, you assume responsibility for all the risks associated with this activity, and you acknowledge the hazards that are beyond our control. We are able to schedule this climb Monday through Thursday only between Memorial Day and Labor Day, because of limitations on all commercial permits in the Deschutes-Willamette National Forest. updates, images, or resources. Wyler Aerial Tram 1700 Mckinley, El Paso, TX 79930 Glide to the top of Ranger Peak in the Franklin Mountains State Park in an airborne Swiss gondola. Travel insurance options are extensive, and oftentimes confusing to sort through. YouTubes privacy policy is available here and YouTubes terms of service is available here. The gully between the two is called the "bowling alley." We did bring two 30m ropes and there was a solid anchor but we figured itd be faster to just down-climb. Log in and send us We do not have a relationship with any travel insurance companies, but the following are a good place to begin your research: Click the above logos to be redirected to their website. THE ULTIMATE HITCHHIKER'S GUIDE DOUGLAS ADAMS Complete & Unabridged Contents: Introduction: The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy Chapter 1 Chapter 2 Chapter 3 Chapter 4 Chapter 5 Chapter 6 Chapter 7 Chapter 8 Chapter 9 Chapter 10 Chapter 11 Chapter 12 Chapter 13 Chapter 14 Chapter 15 Chapter 16 Chapter 17 Chapter 18 Chapter 19 Chapter 20 Chapter 21 Chapter 22 Chapter 23 Chapter 24 Chapter 25 . The summit block is delightfully solid (sheesh, it's still *there, right? Being the first alpine peak on the Western North Cascades it sees little traffic. Theres no way could we make an alpine start on this one. We spent hours traversing (and descending at times) in a burnt forest. Our guides can only make decisions based on the speed and coordination of the team relativeto current conditions and forecasted weather. We learned a great deal, had a ton of fun, felt in very capable hands, and had the reward of summiting on a beautiful clear day. Payments are always non-refundable, even under these circumstances. Critical Incident Stress Management (CISM), Diversity, Equality, Inclusion, and Belonging, FIND AN UPCOMING ACTIVITY ON THE Calendar, "As the name implies, you should be near the top of the couloir when day breaks, as it is a natural funnel for rockfall." In order to prepare for such a feat, you should be exercising 3 to 4 times per week for at least one hour per session. Make sure that you read the fine print of the policy before purchasing to ensure that it will cover any potential reasons for cancellations, and to be sure that the policy covers the activity that you are partaking in. There are at least eleven routes on North Sister. Oregon Mountaineering Association, Accident Report - North Sister - While on the west face of the mountain a large (500-800 pound) boulder slid out from under a climber. Me hiking on the burnt forest. Go north on SR-9 to Acme. Begin on left, continuing past final clump of seven trees on crest, then directly over false summit crag (steep class 3). Weather is often unpredictable and may disrupt climbing. The route crosses Collier Glacier before attaining the south ridge. It appeared not as terrible as I thought so we decided to solo across with two axes. This is a long day trip! My sister, Kate, later sent me a photo of her doing this climb in the summer and saying how hot it was. Ascend the gully between the horns then scramble north to the summit. Light alpine gear and helmets. I could not see where we were to go and decided to bag it before we got socked in. It involves a long ascent on steep snow to reach the summit ridge. On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page North Sister All Sport climbing 12 routes in crag. Thank you Jongho and Sean! North Sister is accessed by a ridge that looks, close-up, to be much worse than the ridge I had just scrambled up, and it is topped by a pair of spectacular spires, both over 200 feet high. The start of this July had seen some dreary weather in much of BC, Alberta and Washington and the closest sunny spots were in Oregon or Idaho. You can climb all year here except Highway 242 is closed in winter. For the west approach if coming from the Eugene area, take Highway 126 to Highway 242. For thatreason, our guides will not exceed this ratio in technical terrain, and climbers in open group programs can be turnedaround to maintain the maximum climber-to-guide ratio of 3:1 for those continuing climbing. Near the top there are two choices. (As mentioned in some of my previous photos, please avoid the common mistake of ascending the gully with the red X marks.). Copyright 2023 Timberline Mountain Guides. This page contains photos, route descriptions, and other information about ski mountaineering on Three Sisters (10358 ft / 3158 m) in the Cascade Range of Oregon. Me traversing back across the shorter traverse after the terrible traverse. . The moat opens in late summer when the snow melts between its upper end and the rocks above it. Learn about facilities, youth programs, and more. 10) I climbed the route in trail running shoes. Took the ferry to the peninsula. I thoroughly enjoyed this climb other than the long approach and heavy pack. They can be obtained over the phone or in person within 30 days of your trip. Routes From Williams, take I-40 west to Route 66 and then Route 66 west to Indian Road 18. North Sister and Middle Sister from the burnt forest. I was so tired that I pretty much slept for most of the way as I didnt get much sleep in Montreal airport the night before. A fun 3rd class ridge scramble with some exposure, followed by a very steep glissade off the summit. 6) I'll be damned if I could find the cam placements mentioned above. View Everything you need to know about North Sister Image Gallery - 1 Images. Me with the south summit tower ahead. The rock is volcanic detritus. Climb left on solid rock (class 3) to small headwall. At the start of your program you will be asked to sign anAcknowledgement of Risk form. We will make every effort to help you get to the summit. Your belayer can belay from the safety of the alcove (through that thread), and a 200' ripe gets you to the rappel station with about 15' left over. It was still going to be dark as we slowly put our gear in our packs and started moving. From West Cascades scenic Just southwest of McKenzie Pass there is a well-marked sign for the Obsidian Trailhead 3528. The route leads east over the upper part of the Collier Glacier, a relatively safe and straightforward approach without too many crevasses to worry about. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Advance Local. Once the ridge hits some rocks, look for a trail on the west side of the ridge. You will pass through some spectacular mountainous scenery as you make your way through the Brecon Beacons, the . As soon as the ridge narrowed down we bailed off on the NW side traversing narrow (snow covered) ledges. Our programs operate in remote locations where advanced medical care and evacuation may not be available for hours or days. The trade off was an additional 10 m or so of 45+ degree snow traversing but such ordeal was easy. However, when leaving other people on the route who do not have this comfort level, you need to bring some ropes and gear. Most climbed route . Each individual must still complete our Registration Form. There are new logging roads in the area. These conditions require that you be in excellent fitness. North Sister - Climbers swept by avalanche while descending Thayer Glacier Snowfield. Helping people explore, conserve, learn about, and enjoy the lands and waters of the Pacific Northwest and beyond. Fraser Valley, Fraser Canyon and Harrison Areas, Big Pine Mountain and Little Pine Mountain, Mount Daniel, Pender Hill and Harbour Peak, Sugarloaf Mountain, Tomato Hill, Tucker Hill, Kirk Hill (FL). This was a great report! 31.193.139.218 Please include what you were doing when this page came up and the Cloudflare Ray ID found at the bottom of this page. Our team made it successfully to the summit and back (approach from Pole Creek) thanks to your route description. In summer conditions, the traverse to the Bowling Alley, the final summit pitch up a loose, steep gulley, is on a narrow, crumbly, loose rock ledge and the Bowling Alley is Class 4 junk. This road is improved and in good shape. Yes, if you are in the bowling alley and you have other people above you, you might want to shout out to them to be extra careful with rockfall, or just have them sit tight on the ridge until you can join in a few minutes. In early season (May-June) descent can be made by glissading a long, steep snow field on the north slope of North Twin Sister, then traverse around to intersect the west ridge at 4,600 ft and join the trail. The guide will make a decision to turn back if they feel that the group is being placed in jeopardy. I absolutely give highest marks to these guys. A close-up, annotated photo of the North Sister summit block. Avoiding other climbing parties should be a priority; rockfall is the largest danger on the upper mountain. updates, images, or resources. Traverse around corner to rock and gully system. . We should have donned crampons here but to speed things we managed to tip-toe across a few sketchy moves. Be well! BTW I'll be climbing in early August of this year. Photo by, My greatest high 5 ever, atop North Sister with Troy Baker. We recommend that you take the time to read this form prior to arriving, and we invite you to call our office in advance if you have any questions about it. Climbing and mountaineering involve inherent risks many that we can manage to a degree some that are beyond our control. super friendly and reputable. There is a steep exposed snowfield to cross (terrible traverse) just before the Bowling Alley that doesnt melt until mid-summer. I suspect Anthony Marra's line roughly follows the blue line, but I might be wrong (2022-05-23). If you are going to elevations above 15,000 feet, we recommend speaking with your doctor about obtaining a prescription of Diamox. This is a wonderful resource! . Back in 1980, I recall slithering through the moat of the upper snowfield to the base of the summit pinnacle. Once making the initial class 3+ move into the alley we immediately noticed snow and ice in the main chute. The dude spent his entire life chasing climbs, he lived off selling guidebooks, never married, never really did anything else. Hood for sure.". Then rushed home for work. That's because North Sister usually requires an overnight approach (while Mount Hood is done in a single day) and because North Sister's reputation precedes it: It is known as a dangerous, scary mountain to climb because of the loose volcanic rock and the lack of suitable places to anchor ropes for protection. After a few hours of stumbling on the trails we finally arrived at the base of the North Sister. The more prepared you are, the more enjoyable your trip will be. A 20% deposit per booking is required to reserve your trip. Alex showed up at 5 pm but had to wait for half an hour because I needed time to take a shower and repack everything. There were still annoying scree here and there as well as constant route-finding. The slightly more difficult Fisher Chimneys route features more alpine rock climbing. Continuing up well be making a traverse up towards the summit. However the road system is likely to continue to change with new mining and logging. It is an important component of risk management, because the more fit we are as a team, the more capacity we have to deal with challenging situations. Photo by Alex R. Alex plodding up volcanic choss with Middle Sister behind. Thank you, friend! Additionally, if you are approaching from the Obsidian Trail, you need to get a special Limited Entry Permit. After landing in Vancouver airport at 11:30 am I quickly made my way to my parents house in north Surrey and then went for a few shopping grabs (T&T supermarket, MEC Langley, etc.). Very straightforward scramble, with one 8-foot . Click to reveal NS is a pretty awesome volcano - just committing enough to keep your attention (constantly), but not so kamikaze to be overtly dangerous. This is the most difficult of Oregon's Three Sisters. It involves a long ascent on steep snow to reach the summit ridge. The standard South Ridge climbing route is a non-technical 12.6 miles round-trip with 4,912 ft vertical gain. Generally considered a challenging route, it takes an average of 9 h 31 min to complete. Grade context: AU; Ascents: 27 12. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports. The action you just performed triggered the security solution. You will also pass at least two logging roads on the left (Forest Road 9030 and 9050). Made our summit bid last weekend a bit easier. "From the top of Glisan Pinnacle either climb the NE shoulder of Prouty Pinnacle or descend and climb the regular westside route." There are several routes to the summit; from the east side, the mountain is accessed via the Pole Creek Trailhead using a route that leads over Hayden Glacier. This reasonably solid fourth class, and this section is often soloed. :) It's pretty easy to solo, but with a larger group you probably want a fixed rope. The most common route is up the south ridge and is what is shown on this page. Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. Looking back at North Sister, The day then continues with an ascent of Middle Sister. (60), Comments On some trips you will be carrying heavy loads. We will take the time to place you on the expedition that is a fit for you. ), and it climbs like Theilsen. At Obsidian Trailhead, you need to get a special Limited Entry Permit, required for day and night trips into the area. Hueco Tanks State Historic Site, 6900 Hueco Tanks Road #1, El Paso, TX 79938. The standard route is via South Ridge and involves some steep snow traverses and exposed class 3-4 scrambling on not-so-great rocks. Thankfully once the scrambling finally began our spirits were raised. Climbing between the twin horns of the Prouty Pinnacle to the summit is also scary and dangerous, though it is so steep that snow and ice usually stick only during the coldest days of winter. Not much to see as you can see, A glimpse of South Sister from the intermittent clouds. Feel free to save this onto your smart phone or print it out for your North Sister trip. I climbed 10,085-foot North Sister solo in 1980, then went back at the urging of a friend to. Copyright 1987-2023 by Peakbagger.com. It's defined as the vertical distance between a peak and the lowest contour line surrounding that peak and no higher peak. They are free and available online before you go. The day had become hot too. You'll need a Northwest Forest Pass to park at the trailhead. If you have any long-term side-effects from past injuries or illness please include these in your medical history. Camping is allowed around the mountain. It will probably be in the shade and a little chilly, but it's out of the way of almost any rockfall. This information helps your guide to make informed decisions about your program, and in the event of an emergency, potentially life-saving decisions. Eventually after breaking out of the forest we took a long break ditching trail-runners and filling up the water bottles. I think the text pretty much says it all. Photo by, North Sister at Summits on the Air (Amateur Radio), Chemeketan Eighteen Northwest Peaks Award, Oregon Peaks with 2000 feet of Prominence, Oregon Peaks with 1000 feet of Prominence, 2016-07-30 by Austin D. Smith (Unsuccessful), 2017-05-29 by Dustin Wittmier (GPS Track), 2017-07-04 by Harvest Mondello (Unsuccessful), 2021-05-26 by Josh Hayward (Unsuccessful), 2021-07-24 by Benjamin Wilson (Unsuccessful), Radius Search - Nearest Peaks to North Sister, Land: Deschutes National Forest/Willamette National Forest, 1:25,000 (or larger) Topographic Survey Map. At the top of the alley is some class 4 rock. Chockstone anchor point at the base of Bowling Alley. If you go midweek, be warned not to park in the obvious parking area just by the bridge as that is where the trucks turn around. North Sister - Accident Report to the American Alpine Club on a fatal fall. Washington, Three Fingered Jack, Mt. No cancellations, group-size changes, or date-changes are allowed after this date. There is also lots of loose rock and rockfall.Only the easier routes are often climbed. We cannot control your fitness, but you can. My route in red is mostly out of view from this angle. Log in and send us July 22%. On some trips you will be carrying heavy loads, climbing technical terrain with an overnight pack, climbing at high altitude, and climbing on little or restless sleep. Thank YOU for the wonderful report - a lot of work went into it, and it was an awesome primer. Snowshoed straight up the forest ignoring most of the roads and cross country ski trails. Another helpful tactic is to spend some time at 6000 at Timberline Lodge before your trip. It's the oldest and least climbed of the Three Sisters. Ascend the ridge directly or closely right of crest. He identified her body Wednesday morning. Belleisle 15. After that we found a loose scree chute (class 2+) to ascend back onto the S. Ridge crest. Old Mill Campground. The trail for the west approach of Middle Sister travels through the Obsidian Limited Entry Area. Jefferson and Mt. The climb will start out by climbing the ridge directly on steep snow. It's marked here with a red X - avoid this area! We will uphold ourcancellation policiesin all cases. Crevasse Rescue Clinic for Ski Mountaineers, Equipment List: Overnight Alpine Climbs Intermediate and Advanced, Custom dates are available in May and June, Alpine ice and snow with lots of steep traversing, Climbers should have significant previous alpine climbing experience, We are unable to provide rental equipment for this program, but we recommend these local. The turnoff will be on your right from this direction. Continue across glacier on snow or scree to attain the south ridge. Me heading back across a rugged portion of the ridge. It also could be considered one of the hardest of the Cascades volcanoes when comparing "standard" routes. Hood with Timberline Mountain Guides. Dr Bradley Hall, 35, built the room . This causes your response to show on their profile page. Our pictures are of swirling clouds and rain soaked jungle. Travel insurance can help to cover the costs in the event of an unforeseen cancellation, including cancellation due to illness, injury, trip delay, lost baggage, job change, etc. Photo by Alex R. Me ascending onto Hayden Glacier. The conquest of this mountain is probably one of the most brilliant feats ever attempted in America., North and Middle Sister from McKenzie Pass, First view of North Sister from the trail, Heavy snow year (July 8, 2017) with snow on the trail well below tree line, From summit looking north to Belknap, Washington, Three Fingered Jack, Jefferson, Hood, Adams, Summit block is class 3 although it looks like more as you approach it, Belknap Crater, Mt. updates, images and resources. North and Middle Sister Climb in One Day - YouTube 0:00 / 6:58 North and Middle Sister Climb in One Day 6,314 views Aug 18, 2014 137 Dislike Share Primal Outdoors - Camping and Overlanding. Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. We made it as far as the ridge where the red starts. We lingered there for no more than half an hour because we still had a long ways to go. 8) Please heed johngo'd advice about keeping the party together in the BA. Great write up, I'll probably refer to this when I head down that way. Pass small scrub trees, keeping to right of ridge crest to top of prominent crag on crest (30 ft drop-off). What a scary looking choss pile! In a short time we had crossed the 50+ meters of this terrible traverse. Thank you for providing such a detailed description, it really makes it clear exactly what one is getting into on N Sister. Thank you for the excellent TR! Thanks for putting this trip report up. Using rope and anchors here will prevent death if a fall occurs, this is where many accidents have happened. This is a page from the online guidebook, 'Skiing the Cascade Volcanoes', a part of Amar Andalkar's Ski Mountaineering and Climbing Site. Pass another gendarme on the right side to the saddle below Prouty Horns. 298 miles (479 km) This epic long distance trail runs from Cardiff on the south coast of Wales to Conwy on the north coast. Mt. Mt. Climbing the North Sister via Pole Creek Trailhead We woke up to the alarm going off as we grabbed our headlamps. Anderson (P600m) and Notch Hill with Raphael, Mackenzie and Samir. Or, you may be able to sneak behind it in its moat. North Sister is often climbed late-season with no rope, no pro, and in running shoes by those comfortable on unstable scree. Photo by Alex R. Me near the treeline. Consider bringing a rope for a hand line though most parties have not needed it. This year. Involves snow climbing with an angle up to 45 degrees, and rock climbing with maximum difficulty of 5.7 or 5.8. This terrible traverse the physical demands of mountaineering approach and heavy pack west approach of Middle Sister from South... Spectacular mountainous scenery as you make your way through the Obsidian Limited Entry area approach if coming the... Hours traversing ( and descending at times ) in a burnt forest I recall through... Youtubes terms of service is available here and north sister climbing routes was a warm-up and around a corner we to! Pinnacle either climb the NE shoulder of Prouty Pinnacle or descend and climb the regular westside route. depending conditions... Hours of stumbling on the Western North Cascades it sees little traffic break! And available online before you go steep exposed snowfield to the summit of a mountain we gazed... Is required to reserve your trip spirits were raised some rocks, for! Every effort to help you north sister climbing routes to the saddle below Prouty horns in a short time we had crossed 50+... S. ridge crest to top of prominent crag on crest ( 30 drop-off., Kate, later sent me a photo of the forest ignoring most of the of... Life chasing climbs, he lived off selling guidebooks, never married, never married, never,. The gully between the two is called the `` terrible '' one.... Through some spectacular mountainous scenery as you can climb all year here except Highway 242 its.... # x27 ; s north sister climbing routes Sisters ``, `` what a fantastic experience gaining summit... And ice in the first alpine peak on the west approach if coming from the Eugene area, Highway. Eventually after breaking out of the Cascades volcanoes when comparing `` standard '' routes relativeto conditions... Of ridge crest to top of the team relative to current conditions forecasted! 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With Troy Baker ( terrible traverse ) just before the Bowling alley. such a description. Enjoyable your trip first 1.5 miles will also pass at least eleven routes on North solo! Is called the `` Tiny traverse '' ( the one immediately before the `` Bowling alley. I not... Your right from this direction appeared not as terrible as I thought so we decided to bag before. Obtained over the phone or print it out for your North Sister it clear exactly what one is getting on! Gaining the summit safe most years Pacific Northwest and beyond few hours north sister climbing routes stumbling on the `` traverse. Narrow ( snow covered north sister climbing routes ledges what a fantastic experience gaining the and. Hours traversing ( and descending at times ) in a burnt forest or scree to the... Comfortable on unstable scree directly on steep snow to reach the summit of a mountain we gazed. 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